By Colins Marshall, Francesca Roukdin, Graham Reed, Olivier Duff.
Metrosexuals
and Men's Bags: Forget fast cars, flashy watches
and i-pods, the latest must-have accessory for the young, affluent male is a
handbag. Despite years of sniggering over the continental male's fondness
for leather clutch accessories, the 'man-bag' - as they have been dubbed -
are now so popular that one in four professional young men in Britain bought
one last year. The in-demand accessory ranges from satchel-style shoulder
bags to tiny across-the-body 'gun-bags', big enough only for a phone and a
wallet. The typical buyer is a comfortably off, 25-34-year-old, pre-family
male, according to consumer analyst Mintel, which believes there is
"significant potential for growth" in the market. As the average price of
bags has declined, demand has grown: sales jumped from £44 million ($79.4
million) in 1997 to £62 million in 2002, and continue to soar. UK high
street stores such as Harvey Nichols, Selfridges, Gap and Topman
all stock manbags in bulk. H&M near Oxford Circus in London has a
wall covered in manbags of all shapes, sizes and colors; the company has
seen "very, very fast" sales, which it expects will accelerate. John
Lewis, Debenhams and even Marks & Spencer have got in on
the act: the latter reports a 10 per cent increase in sales in two years.
Asda has just introduced them to its George clothing range. "We're
seeing huge growth," says Eddie Knevett, brand manager for leather,
luxury and shoes at House of Fraser. "Men's bags are now established,
it is just part of the casualisation in menswear - less suits, less ties,
less briefcases. It has almost got like women's bags with cult trends - the
current 'it' bag is Eastwood by Mulberry, which retails at
£695 ($1876). "We've seen up to 30 per cent growth in men's bags this year,
and the market will carry on growing because the generation carrying these
bags will continue to do so. They are more comfortable, practical and
lighter than a briefcase." Bernard Thomas, menswear buyer for
Browns, the upmarket clothing store in London's West End, says
that men "are carrying bags more than ever". "Sometimes it's from necessity,
but there's also an element of having one for show - an identifiable, or at
least identifiably expensive, bag." He warns against buying one "much
smaller than half of A4". Tim Nixon, a 23-year-old strategy
consultant from Shepherds Bush, west London, owns two man-bags: a
small, brown, leather satchel, £130 from Selfridges, for work
documents and a laptop; and a 10x10in green canvas pouch, £15 from H&M, for
casual use. "I use it like a proper handbag for my wallet, phone, keys, pens
and music player," he explains. "It's good for taking shopping, on holiday,
to the park and the pub. "They are a metrosexual accessory. A briefcase is
too stuffy, but if you don't have a bag you end up wandering around looking
like a kangaroo, with all this stuff sticking out of your pocket, which is
insecure and uncomfortable." He admits he "could have a more masculine bag",
but "would rather have a fashion accessory". "My girlfriend refers to them
as my gay bags, but really she likes them. I'm actively looking for my third
- something more smart-casual." Fashion experts remain divided on whether
man-bags are a desirable marriage of style and function, or just 'posh bum
bags' and a passing fad. "They shouldn't be worn without irony," said Wayne
Hemingway, founder of Red or Dead label. "If you're going to be ironically
cool, then the thing is to go for a German-Swiss look - in winter, wearing
one with a pair of slacks, shiny shoes and a tight leather jacket, and in
summer, worn with socks and sandals. But it's a bit risky unless you can
carry it off. "The fashionistas are wearing them thinking it looks good and
it's the height of fashion, just because the likes of Prada are doing
it. But Prada have a healthy sense of humour sometimes. "I keep seeing a lot
of lads who are not doing it with a healthy sense of humour and need to
develop one pretty quickly. They should take a rain check on this."
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